Back to America

So, wow, what a trip! We made it back to the US on July 1st. And we had ourselves a time. I've added some pictures to kind of summarize our trek from Cape Town to Cairo.

So we started out by going down to Cape Town, South Africa. First thing we did was go shark cage diving with the Great White Sharks. It was like watching Shark Week except those suckers were about six inches from our faces. Intense!

We climbed Table Mountain, visited Robben Island and saw Nelson Mandela's prison cell, went on a wine country tour, kayaked, scuba'd, ate lots of food. Just had a great time in one of the great cities of the world.









So from Cape Town we worked our way north to Malawi. Spent a few days relaxing on the shores of Lake Malawi. We wanted to get some scuba diving in there (it's supposed to have some of the best fresh water diving in the world) but the Dive Master was sick the day we had booked, so no go. Hey sometimes you win sometimes you lose.

After Malawi we went back to Tanzania. Cabrini and I had visited the Serengheti, Ngorongoro Crater and Zanzibar back in January. But this time we had one thing in mind: Mt. Kilimanjaro! So we caught a train (24hours) across southern Tanz, then bused to Moshi where we met up with Bibi and Azizi of Maasai Moja trekking company. They took us in and treated us like family.

Long story short seven days later we summited Kili. It was a beautiful experience! Fifty or five thousand pictures can't tell the story, but one will have to do.



Then it was Cairo. After the obligatory trip out to giza to see the piles of rocks we flew to Aswan for a cruise down the Nile.

We saw some of the coolest temples in the world and an absolute TON of hieroglyphics. Aswan, Edfu, Luxor, Karnak, Valley of the Kings and more that I can't even remember. Of all the temples, monuments and various archeological sites in the entire world Luxor has fully one third. It's amazing.

Finally we fly to Sharm el Sheik on the Red Sea for some great scuba diving. We didn't have a good dive in Cape town (rough weather), and the dive in Malawi was scratched. But the reefs we dove on at Sharm were beautiful. Great visibility, beautiful colors, a gazillion fish. Fantastic.




So we didn't have an underwater camera, but you can see how awesome the water was.


Finally it was back to Cairo. Re-connected with my old friend Hani. Then it was catch a flight to JFK and just like that our African adventure was over.

Two years. Man, where did it go? It was the best of times, it was the worst of times. I met a wonderful woman. Saw amazing things. Did amazing things!

I'm going down to Costa Rica next week to see Mick for the first time in almost two years. Cabrini and I have a few things to do in August. But the biggest thing is on August 24th we hit the road again. Well, the skies to be exact. We're going to China. More about that later.

Sorry if the pictures are incomprehensible or out of order. I hope to get back into the blogging routine. If I could just stay off facebook...

Strange Days

Sixteen days and a wake-up. On May 19th I´ll exit Botswana after two years in the Peace Corps. It doesn´t seem real.

Although at times it felt like it would drag on forever now it feels like we arrived fifteen minutes ago. But as they say, it´s all over but the shoutin´.

I´ve been asked if it was worth it. Would I do it again? Would I recommend it?

And my answer is a resounding yes! Or no. Or maybe. (I'll probably need a couple years of psychotherapy to fully be able to answer that.) Was it life changing? Sure. But no more so than four years in the army, 25 years of marriage, a night on the town, or a good steak. It's just a matter of degree.

So what now lies ahead? What is the ever popular "Way Forward?"

When getting ready to come here I was interviewed by the Columbiana Morning Journal and asked "what are your plans when you finish Peace Corps?" In typical smart-assed style I just said "It shall be revealed unto me."

Here is what has been revealed thus far:

On the 19th Cabrini and I hop a bus for Johannesburg, South Africa, change buses there and move on to
Cape Town. Gonna spend a couple weeks there. Check out Robben Island (UNESCO World Heritage site), where Nelson Mandela was imprisoned during Apartheid times, go diving with Great White Sharks, climb Table Mountain, drink some nice wine, eat good food and get out of there before the World Cup starts. Then we'll fly north to Malawi. Spend a week or so along Lake Malawi, hoping to get a dive or two in what's supposed to be some of the best fresh water diving in the world.

Eventually we'll work our way north back into Tanzania. Our goal is to climb Mt. Kilimanjaro, th tallest mountain in Africa (19,350 feet) and the highest in the world climbable without specialized equipment. And yet another UNESCO WH site...

Once we finish that little workout we basically plan on flying to Cairo to complete the Cape Town to Cairo trip. After visiting the ancient piles of rocks outside Giza it's back to America.

At least that´s the general plan. We might get sidelined by gorillas, guerillas or some other offerings of Afreaka. But all in all looking for an early July return. Then it gets interesting.

I haven't seen my son Mick since December '08 and he's now in Costa Rica doing HIS Peace Corps bit. I'll be zipping down thataway for a couple weeks. Otherwise I'll be frantically re-connecting with friends and family as Cabrini does with hers in New York...

...until mid-August. One of our fellow Botswana volunteers is getting married out in Montana on August 14th. Cabrini and I will re-unite to attend the nuptials.

THEN its back to NYC in final prep for our non-stop flight on August 24th, JFK to Beijing. The plan is to spend upwards of a year at Mt. Wu Dang Taoist Academy for the martial arts. Its located on yet another UNESCO WH site. Gonna learn my self some Tai Chi.

After that? Well, kinda back where we were a little over two years ago. "It shall be revealed...yada, yada, yada."

An Homage to Shortness

I woke up this morning and nearly broke my neck falling out of bed. It felt like the floor was ten feet below the mattress. "What the...?!" And then it hit me.

Today I am officially (and for the second time in my life) "short." Not the kind of short you may be thinking of. Granted I stand 5'6", tall for a short man. And I mean no disrespect to little people.

But as of this moment I am a two-digit midget. My time left in Peace Corps Botswana is rapidly drawing to a close. The last time I experienced this phenomenon was 1976 in Korea. US Army. What a difference three and a half decades make.

By May I´ll be parachuting off a curb. Ninety-nine days and a wake up. Giddyup!

Happy Turkey Day (Unless you´re the bird)

Peace Corps policy is that we don´t get the day off for American holidays. So today is just another day in the Kalahari Desert. (if you work in Peace Corps headquarters you get both American AND Botswana holidays off. A total screw job in my opinion.)

Anyway, it doesn´t bother me. Although some yams with butter and gravy would go down pretty well. Maybe some fresh blackberry pie. And another slice of the bird. Don´t care if its light or dark meat. More gravy...

Where was I? Oh yeah, also Happy 62d Anniversary to my parents. I like to think they are living "Happily Ever After."

In other news: Monday, December 1st is World AIDS Day. Exactly two years ago on that date I received notification from Peace Corps sending me on my way.

I´ll be traveling up to Kasane on the Zimbabwe/Zambia border for the national commemoration. I see where the spread of AIDS worldwide appears to be stabilizing...except in southern Africa. Fifty percent of maternal deaths in Botswana are due to complications of AIDS. One in six children is an orphan. It´s a perfect storm.

Be of good cheer!

And Then There Was One...

It was 1977. I´d gotten out of the Army the previous year. Was single. Twenty-seven years old. Getting fat.

I had tried playing racket ball to stay in shape. But there were few courts in Athens back then and court time was tough to get.

One day, while waiting for a court to open up I decided to jog around a bit to warm up. And thus the die was cast.

It wasn´t bad at first. I built up to three miles and stuck to it fairly well. Wasn´t looking for much more.

Then one day I was getting a haircut at Max Carsey´s shop down on Court Street. He had a copy of "Runner´s World." That did it. I was hooked.

Looooooooooong story short this morning my three mile jaunt brought me to mile number 99,999 lifetime. (I don´t count runs done in high school gym or Airborne shuffles. Just ´77 onward.)

Thirty-two and odd years. Forty marathons (Best- 2 hrs, 39 mins flat; Columbus 1984), 17 Bostons. Fastest mile- 5:03 (pedestrian), best 10Km- 33:42, best ten miler- 56:19, half marathon- 1:14:40.

In one eleven year stretch I recorded 44,000 miles, over 4,000 miles per year. I wonder how I was able to do it.

But tomorrow morning I´ll make my goal. A hundred grand by age 60. With weeks to spare.

Don´t think I have another hundred thou in me. But I still have a few. And the next day I´ll start on them.

Five Years On...

Those who follow this blog know the significance of this day. Five years ago Jan, my wife of 25 years, passed away. And every year I post something on this date about her, about me, about what it´s like.

In the past year I´ve begun a sort of metamorphosis. I´ve written this post out on that topic about five different ways now. And none satisfy what I want to say.

But basically it boils down to this:

I´ll always love her. I´ll always remember her. But it´s time to fully engage in this life. I can´t continue to measure time by how long its been and what has been lost.

This blog is the Best of What´s Left. Not the Best of What´s Left Behind.

This is my last "Anniversary of" post. Of all people she would approve.

Paradise in the Indian Ocean

Just got back from nearly two weeks in Mauritius. Got re-certified in scuba after 36 years. With me is Cabrini. We had a wonderful time! Nuf said.

Artsy Fartsy

I did this over the weekend. From looking at my last post you can see my immediate inspiration. It was a combination mosaic/water colour (get that UK spelling?)with salt, Thokolosi salts (don't ask) and some kind of beans (mung?).

There's one part I'm particularly proud of. I posted this directly on facebook and no one got it.

Wild Kingdom Lives!

This was awesome. John John Kempf, the Afrikaaner guy who took us all out into the CKGR, was driving alongside these guys (or were they running alongside us?). I was laying on the roof of the Range Rover snapping away as we rolled over the plain. He was yelling "Are you getting this?" I'm yelling "Yahoo! Keep going! Keep going!"

It was a moment.

It's Not All Donkeys, Goats and Cattle...

I'm having a terrible time posting pictures on blogger. Hope at least this one comes through. Saw this big guy a few weeks ago when camping in the CKGR (Central Kalahari Game Reserve). He wasn't overly thrilled about giving ground. But we were two vehicles and he apparently didn't like the looks of us. We were a bit gamey at the time.

I Am Not Dead

Reliable sources inform me I have not posted here since April 29th.

My excuse is I have no excuse. Just haven´t heard the muse.

Sorry.

So...I´ve been in Peace Corps 14 months as of tomorrow. The day-to-day is pretty unremarkable.

Oh! I have started teaching reading at Rethuseng, the local Junior Secondary School. Forms two and three. That´s like 9th and 10th grades. About 30 and odd kids in each class. Once a week.

So far I´ve done it once. It was fun. Their reading level is below what I´d expect for kids that age. But that´s just me. Overall they seem nice. It´s something to do that feels good.

I´m closing in on 100,000 miles run lifetime (not counting the army). I want to hit that milestone by my 60th birthday. Got less than 500 miles and about seven months to do it. Shouldn´t be a problem.

Starting to think about life post-Peace Corps. Got some ideas, but don´t want to discuss them here yet.

Otherwise everything goes well here.

Jiminey Cricket!!!

This is a Corn Cricket. They are huge. Apparently when the Corn Crickets appear that means the end of the bug season. I've been seeing them all over for more than a month though. And there's still a lot of bugs around.

This Is Teaspoon!

The happiest dog in the 'ville of Charles Hill. Teaspoon started life as the pet of a former Peace Corps volunteer in nearby Karakubis. When she left her boyfriend moved to Chuck.

People in Botswana typical treat dogs with the care and tenderness usually reserved for rats in your pantry. To show kindness or affection is somewhat akin to pure lunacy.

But Teaspoon was weaned on Americans. And she LOVES to run with the other PCV in the village and me. She can't understand why we can't keep up with her. Naturally she was spayed early on. So her teats don't drag in the dust like most feral dogs around here. Also she mightily enjoys showing off her speed when she goes after various goats, cattle, chickens, donkeys and other quadrupeds.

If I happen to be out at night Teaspoon comes along for escort service. Of course I have to give her a reward.

Just one of the treats of African village living.

One Year In Peace Corps (Amended from Yesterday)

So today marks one year since I pulled out of Columbiana, looked across Arrowhead Lake for (what I hope) the last time and headed to Cleveland for the short flight to Philadelphia and the Peace Corps..

So today marks one year since I pulled out of Columbiana, looked across Arrowhead Lake for (what I hope) the last time and headed to Cleveland for the short flight to Philadelphia and the Peace Corps..

Ordinarily I do my year in review on January 1st. But this is a more significant date.

So what has transpired in the last 365 days?

First, the raw numbers:
Miles run-978 (My lowest since 1977, yet still on pace to hit 100,000 miles by my 60th birthday. I only have to average 2.5 per day, not as easy as it sounds, but eminently doable.)
Countries visited- five (South Africa, Botswana, Namibia, Mozambique and Swaziland, in that order)
UNESCO World Heritage Sites visited- Squat. (Not a good year for cultural and historical edification.)
Books Read – 113 (Not bad. Lot’s of alone time. Also explains why my Setswana is so bad. Ga ke bua Setswana sentle!)
Times I’ve ALMOST sold my house- Three (Last time was close. Within five days of the closing the buyer lost his job. Curses!)

So what else? Phew! Lots!

The reason my companeros and I came here is to help in the fight against HIV/AIDS. I doubt any of us had much of an idea how hard that thing is. You know, as bad as it was, AIDS in the US was brought under “control” relatively quickly. Certainly it could have been handled MUCH better (Read “And the Band Played On…”). But the Grim Reaper no longer hovers over every potential sexual encounter like he did in the late 1980s-early 90s.

Would that it were so easy here. We are up against so many variables it boggles the mind. Every couple months it seems a new focus arises. ABC (Abstinence, Be Faithful, Condomize). Circumcision. Multiple Concurrent Partners. Sexual Networks. So far no magic bullets.

BILLIONS of Dollars, Euros, Yen, Yuan and Pula have been poured into this over the last 20 and odd years. Yet the problem ceases to go away. Or even get much better. Whole bureaucracies have sprung up around the banner of HIV/AIDS. I can’t even begin to keep track of all the NGOs (Non-Governmental Organizations).

I can’t be expected to understand it all and/or what it will take to make any difference.

I have to self-censor this blog because Peace Corps monitors blogs and what we say. But here is my current opinion (subject to change tomorrow. Or even this afternoon.):

First of all one must recognize that historically Africa has been a hard place to survive. I often say for untold millennia Africa has been a pretty easy place to wake up dead on a given morning. Bugs, snakes, Africanized bees, malaria, dengue, Yellow Fever, wars, big animals that like to eat you. Africa has it all. For 200,000 (or is it two million?) years evolution here has been developed to ensure survival of the fittest. I don’t want to go into everything I think that entails. But suffice it to say it’s a life-pattern significantly different from what we in the west call “normal.”.

The influence of the western world in Africa has only been for around 150 years, give or take. Most countries here were colonized by the “Great Powers” in the late nineteenth century. Independence came to Africa barely fifty years ago.

Two hundred thousand years vs. 150.

I speak of Botswana, because that’s what I know best. But I also think much of what I say can be extrapolated throughout alot of sub-Saharan Africa.

Things here may APPEAR familiar to us. The clothes are basically the same. The cars are the same, except for the whole “driving on the left” thing. Television pumps American style entertainment into living rooms. Internet, though not ubiquitous, exists. Coca-Cola is Coca-Cola (only with REAL sugar, not corn sweetener. Big difference!) Over all it kind of LOOKS like us.

But those things lie only on the surface. Underneath the skin “Survival of the Fittest” still calls the shots. Behaviours that ensure propagation and survival of the species still reign supreme.

We think we (Africans and westerners) are all driving together on the same road in the same direction. But my feeling sometimes is we are in opposite lanes, going opposite directions, both hoping to arrive at the same place at the same time. We will never understand each other. We CAN’T understand each other! The cultural gaps are too wide.

I seriously doubt that our two years here will make any critical kind of difference. Even the six or so years since Peace Corps was reintroduced to Botswana hasn’t seen much improvement. Most likely 20 years here wouldn’t make much difference. Am I sorry I came? To the contrary. I HAD to come! How else would I learn? It is in the best efforts of evolution that we try to help our fellow humans survive and thrive.

How will this all turn out? I don’t know. I’m a doomsdayer. I see the potential scenario for Apocalypse in every society, ours included (I had a ball with Y2K. Of course I was wrong!).

What happens if/when the HIVirus mutates and the Anti-Retro Viral (ARV) drugs lose effect? Or the Botswana government, in the current financial crisis, can’t pay for the ARVs? Or Zimbabwe melts down (even more) and war spills over the borders. What if. What if? What if!

Maybe a cure will be found. That would be a HUGE monkey wrench in a lot of careers! Sometimes I think history will judge us from a distance of a century or so and say “Those blind fools! Couldn’t they see how stupid they were? If only they had done X or Y or Z!”

I don’t write this as an indictment. My service here is no better nor worse than if I was digging irrigation ditches in Mongolia. I’m glad I came. Sometimes we must tilt at windmills. Don’t read this and say “Oh, Wigal is unhappy. He’s sorry he came.” I am very happy. I have learned a lot and have found my happiness here. Four years ago I was at the nadir of my existence when I happened to fly into Beirut, Lebanon and my life changed immeasurably (Yes, Joseph). For the better I think. Botswana also is having that same effect.

One of the very few things I can say in Setswana is “letsatse le langwe kwa Paradise!” Don’t worry. The Motswana never understand what I’m saying either.

Look what I Found

I'm sorry it's taken so long to post. We just got internet in the office I work. It is VERY slow and I have to keep refreshing the page.

A couple weeks ago we had a music/drama tour of the sub-District. Ten villages and settlements in five days. It was a whirlwind tour.

Later I'll try to put up more pix. For now I'm just hoping these will fly.

The one without the baby was of me and some of the crew. the baby was just a random cute kid who hitched a ride with us one day. The mom hitched too. But we let the little guy ride up in the cab.

If You´re Going to Play Around With Facial Hair Now´s the Time to Do I

If it´s sideways I´m not gonna fix it. I´m trying this with my Nokia E90 cell.
The reviews are mixed. But the Motswana women almost uniformly hate it. Ergo, it has a good chance of staying.

I Should Do A Caption Contest With This

From L to R: Me, Ebony (Bots 7, Palapye), Brian (Bots 6, Gantsi)
Taken at GLOW (Guys/Gals Leading Our World) Camp last week. All of us in our official GLOW Camp T-shirts.

The look on Ebony's face is priceless. I don't know what Pearl of my wisdom I am saying, but her expression pretty much sums up the response of all the women I've ever known.

The Rainy Season Is Upon Us

We've been getting some rain here in Chuck Hill lately. The pictures don't do justice to the scene of massive storm clouds rising over the Kalahari. The past couple days have seen downpours create a river in my front yard. But of course it's desert, so the water sucks into the sands almost as fast as it falls. The lightning show is spectacular! After almost six months without a cloud in the sky it's a treat.

So...mom...how's the leg?

World AIDS Day

One year ago today I opened my mail and learned I might as well give up my Arabic lessons as I was headed to Botswana. Hard to believe a year has gone by already. Commemorations will be held all over the world this day. We remember those who have died, those who live with HIV/AIDS and those yet to succumb to this terrible disease.

Are we making a difference here? Hard to tell. We may never know. Still we must try.

It's what makes us human.

Sompin' About This Just Ain't Right

I'm not criticizing, but this just struck me as odd.. Christmas doesn't seem the big deal here that it does in America. Of course I doubt it's that big of a deal ANYWHERE else than America. But, this grocery store is owned by Boers. They are white-German-Dutch-Euro-something-or-other (Hey, I STILL can't keep Afrikaners and Boers and various assorted pale faces sorted out here!). Seems like they would have put up a red S. Claus. It IS for sale, something like P1600, which at current rates is around USD$200.

Bet he would look good on my front porch. Here.

Only One Regret

Sure wish Jan Gill-Wigal was around to see Obama's win. She may once have passed as Hillary's double, but she would have LOVED this!

Comes The Dawn!

After eight long dark years I am proud to be an American. Congratulations Barack Obama. Congratulations you and me. I've been up all night cranking my shortwave radio and going back and forth between BBC and Voice of America. WE just made the World a little bit better place.

More Pix From My Maun Trip

OK, Mom said she couldn't see my face on yesterday's photo. So here is one where you can see my beautiful face. When I first saw it I thought "Pete Wigal went to Africa." If you know him I think you'll agree.

Wild Life in Botswana

Had a workshop over the weekend up in Maun. Had the chance to take an evening boat ride. The ostrich was running along the vehicle on the way up. Thought he (she?) looked pretty cool. The hippos aren't included in Africa's Big Five. Still waiting to see one of those. As for me, I MIGHT need another haircut.

More Chez Mothusi

So now that I've had four months to settle in I thought some might like to see what some of my day-to-day stuff looks like. So this first one is my automatic dishwasher. It has a soak, wash and rinse cycle. Oddly so does my clothes washer. In fact they are one and the same. Multi-tasking. The second picture is my "Home Office." Not much different from the one I had in Columbiana. Except there is no wireless internet to steal from the neighbors (Oops! Did I say that?)

Itsoseng Pre-School by my House

Finally I'm getting around to posting about the pre-school. The teachers now love me and the kids think I'm Uncle Mothusi (Too early for Santa Claus. Yes, they celebrate Christmas. Don't know if SC is big here.)

Also Mick tells me a peace organization in Columbia, South Carolina is helping put together another box to send for the kids. Here is their website if you're interested: carolinapeace.org.

This thing is growing so big it I am working to make the materials available to all kids in chuck Hill. The other Peace corps Volunteer and I are trying to find a place like a library (Wait til you see the pictures of it.)or the local medical clinic to have a children's corner. Things take lots of time here to materialize. I'll keep you posted.

Speaking of time, today marks six months since I left Columbiana. Only twenty short months to go!

A Parting of Ways

Some time back I posted about seeing a certain lady who happens to be a Republican (Not that there's anything wrong with that). Well, we have agreed to a mutual parting of ways. Africa, it turns out, is rough on relationships.

But this is a part of my life and therefore I feel the need to post it here, even though it might not rank as "The Best of What's Left."

Fact is it is unfair to ask someone to invest "Emotional Capital" in a guy who is going to disappear for two years. I've made this statement several times to members of the female gender and have uniformly been met with nods of agreement.

I wish her the best and only good things. I'm certain life will be good under the new Obama presidency.

Remember

This must be like what amputees go through. Scratching an itch on a part of me that is no longer there.

Fours years. I still have dreams you’ve come back to me. How many times have I looked up and said “What the Hell happened?”

They say “you never forget, but it gets better.” It doesn’t. You just deal with it. Some days I can actually not think about it. Not in September. But some days.

Attended a Peace Corps workshop the other day. They had a Clinical Psychologist make a presentation. Motswana lady. US educated. It was like she was channelling Jan up there. Afterwards I told her that.

I have no higher praise.

I've Been Terrible at Posting Lately

I just haven't had the access or time. as it is I have four minutes left to post this. Here are a couple pix from a couple weeks ago when Bots 7 was in Kanye for Early Term Reconnect.

One day we took a hike in this pretty little gorge. The other was of running with the local kids.

Woolies?

I just wonder if this is the same pre-Wal-Mart business that used to exist in Main Street America. I've seen them in Abu Dhabi. They are all over Botswana. Not a bad place to pick up some decent clothes. The bigger cities have Woolworth's grocery stores. Expensive by Bot's standards, but sometimes you can find stuff the other groceries don't have. Of course getting to one ONLY involves 12 hours by bus.

Hardly worth the effort. But if by chance you happen to be there...

Ahh Spring! I mean, Fall! No Spring! Whatever.

This is an odd feeling. Winter in Botswana is ending. Only because winter here is a sight warmer than anywhere else I've ever been do I feel like it should be cooling down soon.

It ain't. Sure we had some mornings when I'm pretty sure it was below the freezing temperature of fresh water (32 degrees Fahrenheit, 0 Degrees Celsius). But always by 10 AM it was at least pleasant shirt-sleeve weather. The Motswana don't buy that. I'm always amazed when in what is surely 80 degree F. weather people are wearing sweaters, hoods, thick jackets (I saw the same thing in Puerto Rico).

But I tremble to think what lies ahead. Apparently 40s C aren't uncommon. Yikes! At least I'll save electricity by not heating the water.

Still I feel like I should be getting a new coat...

Hey! Primanti Brothers!

I’m not making a political statement. I just can’t see why they would ruin a perfectly good picture of Primanti Brothers (in Pittsburgh) with Cindy McCain’s mug. This was in a recent edition of Newsweek the Peace Corps sends us.

Man, what I would give for a Primanti’s roast beef piled with fries and cole slaw! And a stroll down the Strip to Mon Aimee Chocolate to drop about $70 on dark chocolate, then across the street to pick up some flavoured pasta and up to Mt. Washington for a look see at the city, then a Pirates game, then throw the kayak in the Mon for a paddle, then stop at Starbucks afterward for a Venti caramel Frappuccino, and then, and then, and then…

Oh well, maybe the Engen station has meat pies today.

Amazing what one picture can do?

What They Need

Following my picture of the Pre-School I was asked by a loyal reader (one of six) if the kids needed supplies of any kind.

Sigh! Where to start? The government provides the VERY basics, paper, pencils, etc. but these kids (and even or ESPECIALLY older ones) need EVERYTHING! Those who know me well know I'm not the most sensitive SOB in the world. I tell you when I visited that little school and saw what they DIDN'T have it about broke my heart. By that I mean things you wouldn't ordinarily think about: games, puzzles, coloring books, crayons... Americans would blow a gasket if their kids were supplied as poorly. They mean well. It's just there isn't enough money to get the things little kids, EVERY little kid, should have.

Things that make you have to think to solve, to work together with others.

See, the educational system here is about where the US was a century ago. Rote learning. The teacher drills them and they respond accordingly. When you ask a kid for his/her opinion you get a blank stare. You get that even from the adults. After all, they are products of the same system.

You talk to kids and they are stunned that you consider them as thinking people. If you can send anything along those lines you will be doing a world of good.

We talk about building capacity among the people in Africa. Get them to the point where they can develop without outside help. So, how does a coloring book build capacity? If one child realizes he or she CAN think and DECIDE for themselves you have built capacity.

The other Peace Corps Volunteer in my village recently met the former Botswana Minister of Health, a physician. Female even. She told her she was inspired by a Peace Corps volunteer teacher she had in Science class Standard Nine (9th grade). That volunteer will never know she gave a push to a future Minister of Health for a country. that's like a Cabinet post.

So you never know.

Also, if anyone with IT expertise could give some advise or help. One of the schools actually has some IMacs, circa 1997. They are all of course basically paperweights. The operating systems are so corrupted as to be about useless. The kids are taught typing skills on turned off computers. Does anyone have an old Windows OS Disc to try to re-format these things? I don't even know if that is possible. Even if you let me know it can't be done would be helpful information.

My address again is:

Mike Wigal
PO Box 170
Charles Hill, Botswana

That's in Africa

My First Picture of Wild Game That Was NOT Donkeys!

OK, so donkeys aren't actually wild game. I've seen a jackal, a hyena, a fox and a Springbok (look it up). But those were at night while speeding along the highway. This was taken also speeding along the Trans-Kgadihadi Highway (150 Km/Hr), so it isn't the clearest. I've been spotting them from time to time between Ghanzi and Chuck Hill, but could never get my camera ready fast enough. This was the best I could do.

Africa is famous for the Big 5, Zebra, Hippo, Lion, Rhino and Elephant. No one talks about these guys. The big game is located farther north. Maybe in a few weeks or months when I get sprung from lock-down (Peace Corps requirement for the first three months at site) I'll run into some of the big boys.

More Pictures from the Petroglyphs

Some of these weren't carved in stone. See if you can tell which.

The Mamuno Rock Carvings

Went out into the bush last weekend. The head of the Village Development Committee (George), took an archaeologist from Gaborone (Judge), the other Peace Corps volunteer in Chuck Hill (Lesedi) and her mom and me to view the rock carvings done by whomever it was who lived in this area 35,000 years ago.

It was pretty remarkable. Too bad I'll NEVER have enough internet time to upload all or even the best photos of the petroglyphs. But I'll throw up what I can here.

I've spent a half hour trying to get one more picture up. Forget it. This one was about the best. Pretty self-explanatory

I Need A Favor

I was walking down my road today and was called over by the Cow ladies to take this photo of their day care centre. I would love to give them this picture. But it will be a month of Sundays before I can get to a place that can develop it. It's a big favor, but could someone print this out in color on glossy paper and send it to me?

Again my address is:
Mike Wigal
P.O. Box 170
Charles Hill,
Botswana

MAil takes forever to get here. At LEAST three weeks. But it would give the ladies and those kids a thrill.

Thanks in advance

Good Bye Baba

Word has reached me that Betty Gill, my mother-in-law has passed. She was 84. And another link to Jan fades away.

Baba (as she was affectionately known) was the Gazda in the Gill family. I don’t know exactly how Gazda translates, but Sloko, my late father-in-law, called her that. Undoubtedly it was Ukrainian in origin and meant she ruled the roost.

Betty was a great lady. She had more than a little influence on raising Mick. Jan’s dying hit her hard of course. It’s tough enough to lose one’s spouse. But to lose your child, regardless the age, it’s just not in the seeming order of things.

Words cannot express my sadness at her passing. She had a big heart and was proud of her Slovak heritage. She accepted me into the family and always went out of her way to make me feel at home in her house.

I’ll miss her and I know Mick will miss his Baba.

I’ve been reading “The Tibetan Book of Living and Dying” lately and it has made Betty’s passing and Jan’s too even more meaningful, if that is possible.

Tsamaya Sentle Baba(Travel Well)

What I Miss....

It has been asked what I miss. To tell the truth not much. I have pretty much everything I need on a day to day basis. Sure, access to a decent pizza parlor (or just A pizza parlor!) would be nice. But all in all I'm pretty happy with my situation.

I neither have nor want a TV, although a Seinfeld rerun would be enjoyed now and again. If I had the series'DVDs I could play them on my laptop (hint, hint.) But otherwise it's all good. I have a fair-sized stash of books. But I'm always on the lookout for more. ANYTHING by Paul Theroux! I read his "Dark Star Safari" a couple years ago and knew I wanted to go to Africa. Read it again about a month ago and it merely confirmed how glad I am that I came.

A few eons ago, when I was in Korea with the army, I used to absolutely fantasize about drinking Mountain Dew. But there's none of that sort of thing now. I hear other younger volunteers going on about this or that specific thing they crave. Maybe it's a function of age, but there's nothing really that comes to mind.

One thing I have realized is that I am basically stuck (if that's the right word) in Botswana for the next couple years. I'll be able to travel around southern Africa during leave. But my usual jaunts are out for a while. To relieve the travel itch a bit I hiked five miles to the Namibian border last weekend. Just to go through customs, have lunch and walk back.

It was a good feeling just to get a new stamp in my passport. Funny thing, the guy on the Bots side of the border took my passport, looked up and asked "Mothusi?" I tell you I'm famous here!

Anyway, I stopped at a petrol station just over the line, grabbed a bite (love the meat pies here) and crossed back. By 12:30 I was back home. But it counts: Namibia is in. I think number 46.

The road was the Trans-Kalahari Highway, fortunately for me a (more-or-less) major thoroughfare past Chuck Hill.

JOHN LEY YOU HAVE REACHED ME!!!!

Use my email, John.
mike247worldwide@gmail.com
It's more direct.
Mike
Charles Hill, Botswana

And While We're On The Subject...

The subject being foodstuffs, They have this catsup here (They call it "Tomati Sous") called All Gold. I'm sorry, but this stuff puts Heinz to shame. I know that is sacrilege to those of us who come from near Pittsburgh. But it's true! It's a little bit spicy (They have a hot and spicy sous too). I tell you I could eat this stuff on applesauce! When I'm finished in Botswana I'll be shipping All Gold to the States by the case.

Why Coke is King

I’ll say right from the start I’m a long time Pepsi fan. And you can get it here. But, in the Developing World Coca Cola is the 800 kg gorilla. For one thing, at least in Botswana, they have the 440 ml monster King can. Maybe a Pula or so more than your standard 330 ml dosage. But well worth the price.

PLUS, it just tastes better than that found in the US. Why? Check the label. Second ingredient: sugar. Not corn syrup or fructose, blah, blah blah. Real 100% Sukiri. The good stuff.

Hey! In Charles Hill it's the little things that help you keep it together.

My Postal Address

It has been requested and I am hereby delivering my postal address:

Mike Wigal
US Peace Corps Volunteer
P.O. Box 170
Charles Hill, Botswana

That's it. Mail takes at least three weeks to get here. PLEASE send me something. Anything! (Well, not ANY thing.)

The box cost me 82.50 Pula for the rest of the year. (So OK, that's only about $13US. But still...)

Mail only arrives in Chuck Hill on Tuesdays and Thursdays. I keep checking. But so far...Nada!

I Need To Learn More About This

OK, the most common "community" or tribe in Botswana is the Bakwena. They speak Setswana. But out here in the west are a group called Herero. I don't know what the whole story is, but apparently they were driven out of Namibia years ago by the German colonists. From what I gather they are largely involved in cattle raising. In fact wealth in Botswana is kind of measured by the number of cattle you own.

So clearly from looking at the Herero women there is some kind of cow influence. I've been told it's an honor to wear this outfit. You see them all over the place. These two ladies I met in Ghanzi at a kind of county fair. Kind of interesting along the lines of the Amish.

Mi Casa Es Su Casa...

All you have to do is get here. The donkeys are available as transport for small fee based upon hay burned per kilometer.

Actually I don't know what these guys were doing outside the house the other day. But this is my humble abode. The yard is pure Kgadihadi Desert sand. It's common for "yards" in Botswana to be skinned down to bare dirt. Deters the things that creep in the night.

But it's now home. Three bedrooms, ELECTRICITY(!), water, even a water heater. Kitchen, bath and a half, living room with ceiling fan, PLUS a fireplace (doubt I'll ever use it).