Been Trying to Add this Photo for a Week now

Finally have a decent ISP here in Bulgaria. When we stopped on our ride to the Abu Dhabi desert to let the air out of the tires of our 4 X 4 (enabling us to have a ride among the dunes Disney could NEVER match!) I jumped out to get a closer look. Peter Kirkpatrick of Virginia Commonwealth University snapped this pic. Some people have the artist's eye for composition. I just take pictures.

This is the Frickin' Life!

Murali and I share a quiet moment in the desert outside Abu Dhabi. What a great evening.

After we ate they turned all the lights out. We all relaxed and gazed at the stars. It was such a relaxing evening.

Tonight we dined with my friend Miro and his wife, Silma, in Sofia. This too was a wonderful night with great food, wine and song.

I tell you I'm almost jealous of myself. As they say in Costa Rica, La Pura Vida. Here's to the Pure Life!

The (I hope) last word on country counts

Had an interesting moment in Milan's airport this morning. Was transfering from Saudi Airlines to Alitalia for the final hop to Sofia. They had multiple arriving planeloads dumping into one line to pass security onto the transfer lounge while another huge group had to cross through our line to get to baggage claim. Mark Schroeder, I could hear the circus music in full swing.

For a moment I thought I could save time and hassle if I slid down to baggage claim, cleared customs, swung BACK to the departure desk and got my boarding pass there. My bags were already checked to Sofia. I would be halfway to claiming an Italy visit. All I would have to do is score a canolli and I'm in. But, I realized then and there the shallowness of that idea. It just wouldn't sell.

So Jason, Hani and everyone else in the debate, I acquiesce. I won't stand by getting drunk, but you gotta at least spend a night and have some kind of cultural experience.

Random Rants: The Sunburnt German Tourist

Among the various nationalities observed in my travels I deem the German to have the least fashion sense. Sure, we have our own American turistos complete with Bermuda shorts, flowered shirt and that damnable fanny pack. But, I'd say as a rule the Deutcher basically has no clue. It seems they have run completely out of ideas here. The last cool looking clothing style they had was the Wehrmacht uniform with the pre-Darth Vadar helmet.

But, they sort of wore out their welcome with that one.

Anyway, hello from Sofia, Bulgaria.

Counting Countries...

Someone on Jason's Blog suggested you must get drunk in a country to count it. If that's the case, Jason just lost Saudi Arabia. The REALLY Islamic Kingdom of Saudi Arabia is as dry as...well, Saudi Arabia. Nice try though, Mojumbo.

Good luck Jason as you leave our group for Mumbai. The Middle East group is starting to split off as we all go our separate ways. See you in South America, either this year or next, Jason.

Visited the US Embassy in Riyadh, Saudi Arabia this Morning...

Our group had an appointment to meet some of the folks at our embassy. Turns out they only had a skeleton crew available because Karen Hughs, the Under Secretary for Stumbling Around Trying to Improve Our Image in the Islamic World, was in Jeddah putting her journalism skills to work whooping it up for the US of A. A version of the famous, "I'm from the government. You can trust us."

But, again, I digress...

The embassy is in a compound of several foreign embassies and, as always, there was a huge crush of traffic going to them. But, we were delayed about an hour, because OUR folks weren't expecting us to come in a bus (There were 19 of us) and they couldn't figure how to accomodate the bus in a parking lot the size of Iowa. After much scurrying around and multiple cell phone conversations and, "you should haves...", blah, blah, blah, we were allowed onto our own turf.

It just seemed they couldn't quite get their act together. Sort of like their boss.

But, naturally many great photo ops were provided. Except we weren't allowed to take cameras, cell phones or any electronic gear in. If I had a pacemaker I wonder how that would have worked.

I said I would post these thoughts here and some said the FBI would probably start a file on me.

Well, Jimmy Crack Corn and I DON'T CARE!!

Counting Countries...

Jason Combs and I are having a running discussion re: What constitutes being able to claim you have visited a country? I have waxed philosphic on these pages previously.

Now Jason is saying you have to stay at least one night in a particular country and drink the local beer. I have stated all you must do is clear customs and eat something. Hani concurs.

I was going to concede Jason's youth to my longevity, but he already nailed me on that aspect in his blog. I won't deny the obvious. Jason is a young whippersnapper, not even twenty-ten years old. I have significantly more mileage. Also, he's out there flirting, sucking down suds, and putzing around in general. I don't have the luxury of that much time. I'm old. I've got miles (and continents) to go before I sleep. I'm not much of a drinker and although I would like to flirt as much as the next three guys, let's face it, once you hit 40 a man basically becomes invisible. Like when you're trying to get a table at a nice restaurant.

But, I digress.

I'm sticking to my original thesis. Clear customs, eat something. Remember I originally wanted to claim it if you landed in the country, changed currency and bought something. But, I'M flexible. I can adapt. I can accept an opposing viewpoint.

Jason's like a Bush apologist on the Iraq War. Always shifting criterion on how we were able to count that country.

Sometimes the Voices in my Head just won't Shut Up...

So, I'm sitting in the lobby of the Abu Dhabi Hilton waiting for my friends and the thought occurred, "What do you figure would be the response if a Hassidic Jew happened to stroll in?"

Of course, the odds of that GOTTA be pretty slim.

The Emirates Palace Hotel, Abu Dhabi

You get the principle. I boosted a pen from the bar. Really, this place should be on that list of 10,000 places to see before you die. BUT, since it isn't I figure it's a freebie. I was there and it brought me no closer to death.

"Which Car Should We Take Tonight, Honey, the White Rolls or the White Rolls?"

After the University Fair last night we strolled across the way to the Emirates Palace Hotel in Abu Dhabi. By acreage the largest hotel property in the world, the place gives new meaning to the word "opulence." It was originally built to house meetings of the heads of the Gulf Coast Countries, but was then turned into this resort. Rooms start at $700 a night, suites at $12,000 per (probably out behind the barn). I haven't captured a photo that does it justice (what photo does justice to the real thing?), but I'll try to nail one before heading to the Sand and Oil Kingdom of Saudi Arabia tomorrow.

No offense to the people of India, but this place makes the Taj Mahal look like the tool shed in your back yard.

Our group wandered around a bit, then treated ourselves. I had the Argentinian Merlot and a Montecristo #2. After a convivial evening we returned to our humble digs at 2 AM. Plenty of time to make the bus ride to our next school visit at 9.

September 23rd

One year ago, almost to this minute, Jan died in my arms. Her death has been heavy on my mind these past few days. As you can see, I'm doing well and enjoying The Best of What's Left. But, that day and that moment is never far from my mind.

For all my travels, all my experiences and all my friends my only wish is that she could have been along for the ride. Everything I experience has a certain emptiness, because my first thought is always, "Wait 'til Jan hears this!"

Allow me this instance to say, Jan, I'm OK. But, it still feels like you're only away at a conference and will be back soon. I love you.

The Haves and the Have Nots

The Haves and the Have Nots
Originally uploaded by MikeWigal.

This was taken at a BEAUTIFUL private school just outside Amman, Jordan. the facilities were, by any standards, top shelf. If you look very carefully on the hillside beyond you can see the tents of Bedouin nomads. I don't think many of them can pony up the tuition for this school.

Did I mention Cultural Imperialism?

Did I mention Cultural Imperialism?
Originally uploaded by MikeWigal.

Papa John's, English and Arabic, in the airport terminal at Amman, Jordan.

Notice DQ in the background.

Drink Pepsi! Even in the Middle East it's STILL better than Coke!

Drink Pepsi! Even in the Middle East it's STILL better than Coke!
Originally uploaded by MikeWigal.

Check out the Arabic.

What Say we do Lunch in Baghdad?

What Say we do Lunch in Baghdad?
Originally uploaded by MikeWigal.

Yeah, it was that close. Actually had a prospective student from Baghdad drive to Amman, Jordan for our university fair there. A great kid. Had an interesting discussion with him about the situation. Baghdad is Hell, but he is hopeful for the future.

But, then, aren't we all?

Back at Baalbeck, Lebanon

Back at Baalbeck, Lebanon
Originally uploaded by MikeWigal.

I realize these posts will be out of order of my trip. but, what do you care? The astute observer will notice the logo of the institution I recently retired from in this picture.

Correct guesses will win one Jordanian Dinar. (That's dinar, not dinner!)

Middle East meets West

Middle East meets West
Originally uploaded by MikeWigal.

Can you say "Cultural Imperialism?" The juxtaposition of the Ford billboard with the minarets of a mosque makes it's own statement.

The Three Amigos

Middle East and Med (Sept 12 to Oct 18, 2005) 371
Originally uploaded by MikeWigal.

At various times I've mentioned Hani and Jason. Their blogs are linked to mine and vice versa. Here we are together in Manama, Bahrain enjoying a bit of down time. Hani is on my left, Jason on my right. A great couple of guys.

The Journey continues

While in Beirut several of our group arranged a side trip over the mountains into the famed Bekaa Valley to see the Roman Ruins of Baalbeck. These were in a word "stunning." How can one describe these? It is impossible to adequately do so. I took over 150 pictures there and they STILL don't do the place justice. So I've thrown in two.

Since Beirut we have BLOWN through Amman, Jordan and have just arrived in Muscat, Oman. It's 1:45 AM, but since I haven't been posting I had to do the needful. We are staying in the Grand Hyatt on the Gulf of Oman. There's a book out named "10,000 places to see before you die." Well, this is one of 'em. Only 9,999 more to go before I kick the bucket. (Actually it might be a few less, but who's counting?)

Apre Dive photo from Beirut

This is Walid Noshie, the dive shop owner, along with Jason Combs, me and a lady from the UK who's name I forget, after our afternoon wreck dive.

If you're ever in the area and want to get a little bottom time in or want to know a good restaurant or whatever, just follow the link and give Walid a call. He's a very nice guy and the staff is great. Thanks to Divemasters Toufiq and Ziyad (I hope I spelled your names right!).

Beirut, Baby! BeeeeiiiiiiiiiRUT!!

Got here and checked into the hotel about 10:30 last night. Immediately hit the streets. The Corniche (along the coast) was busy, lot's of families, etc. enjoying the evening. I love this city! People hear Beirut and they think "War Zone." Well, keep thinking it. Keeps the touristos out. Money is pouring in here. The shopping area downtown is Tres Chic. Too freakin' chic, as a matter of fact. Stopped in on little dinky shop to see how much a pair of swin trunks cost. A hundred and forty bucks!! Are they nuts?! How many pairs of THOSE a day do you have to sell to cover your expenses? I tell you, the place wasn't crowded.

Anyway, went scuba diving, two tanks. Water was warm, but visibility was poor and the reefs were beat up. But still, my 2d and 3rd dives in the last 28 years.

But, Beirut is an absolutely beautiful city. Very western, friendly to us Umerikans.

The group has almost all showed up, so tomorrow we start work.

So, far I've taken 51 pictures. I'll include two here: one show Roman ruins in the foreground, a mosque in the background and a construction crane, a typical Beirut sight. The second is a couple buildings still showing bullet holes from the war. What you don't see is all the new construction around the few buildings from the old days.

One last post before I blow town...

I went for a run this morning in Mill Creek Park. The Closed Side for those who know. It's marked off in quarter miles, fairly accurately except for the last one nearest Rt. 224. It's short. You gotta run to the garbage can on the right for the full 440. ANYWAY, so I was doing six miles. I wanted to average at least 7:30s per. Which I was nicely. On my last leg, a little over a mile to go I was passed by a younger guy. He looked about 22-24, athletic build, but not marathoner lean. Still he was trucking along pretty well there. Now I haven't run in a race in over six years and have no interest in doing so. BUT he was right there in front of me. I couldn't resist. Everytime I pushed my pace a little, he sensed it and picked it up. I really didn't want to push that hard, but once a runner...

By the time we finished he broke. I could just feel it. We were probably running somewhere fairly close to six minute miles. Nothing to brag about, but as much as it made my legs hurt, IT SURE FELT GOOD!

So OK, last run before the Corniche in Beirut. I'll definitely take it easier there. Too much to look at.

I'm gone. Peace, out!

Locked, Cocked and Ready to Rock!

Tomorrow I head out...again! Oh, well, I've been home a whole three weeks. The yard is mowed, the bills are paid. I'm bored with this kind of living.

For anyone who is interested (you must be interested or you wouldn't be reading this) here's my itinerary:
Beirut, Lebanon;
Amman, Jordan;
Muscat, Oman;
Manama, Bahrain;
Abu Dhabi, UAE,
Riyadh, Saudi Arabia,
Sofia and Sozopol (On the Black Sea), Bulgaria;
Istanbul, Turkey;
Nicosia, Cyprus;
Thessaloniki, Greece;
Cairo and finally Alexandria, Egypt.

Along the way I'll make airport transit stops in London and Milan. While I've never been in the UK or Italy, those countries don't count on my lifetime score. The official, unofficial, rules are that you must clear customs for a country to count. The rules are of course total BS made up by a bunch of my collegues sitting around one day discussing what counts and what doesn't.

For example, twice I've had to change planes in Bangkok, Thailand. I never left the airport, but I did change some currency and make a couple purchases while there. I was on the ground in the country. Seems to me that should suffice. But, my friends say no.

Anyway, I digress. (I had to get a rant in there somewhere.)

So right now I stand at 20 countries. Should I live until October 18th and complete the trip I'll have 25. That's not bad, especially since on this day four years ago I had a grand total of five. All this post-9/11. It's not nearly as scary as people think. I've met a person with 210 and another with 129 countries to their credit. So, I'm just a piker.

No pix this post. Many to follow...

Columbiana Street Fair

Columbiana Street Fair
Originally uploaded by MikeWigal.

The state fair of street fairs. This is the 119th Annual. Enough calories consumed here to feed Sudan. But, the Elephant Ears are REALLY good!

Also 2005 is the 200th anniversary of the founding of Columbiana.

Comments...

It's 3 AM here in Mike's World and I'm up. Typical. (Hey, it ain't easy being me.) I don't know if it's considered poor etiquette to mention this, but I noticed I had a couple comments on my last two blog entries. And they weren't from people I already know whom I forced to read this at the point of a gun. Wow! I'm stunned. How the heck did they even find this thing?

Anyway, it's a rush. But, of course it puts incredible pressure on me. I guess the thought may have crossed my mind that someone might one day read my drivel. Sure, sometimes I think "That was a pretty good entry." But, it could be like when you were in high school and wrote something for the school paper, thinking you really nailed it. Then ten years later you come back across it and it turns out to be a load of crap.

I don't know if I can stand up to the pressure.

Nah! No problem. (But, thanks guys.)

Mediterranean Sunset

Mediterranean Sunset
Originally uploaded by MikeWigal.

The view from my hotel. Sometimes I think "This is a pretty good life."

On to Beirut

On to Beirut
Originally uploaded by MikeWigal.

This is the view of the city as you approach the airport. Below right are the Pigeon Rocks, a beautiful backdrop.

I took this last February 20th on my first visit.

Heading East

MIDDLE East. Monday starts a five week jaunt to the Middle East and Mediterranean area, with a stopover in Bulgaria. (I figure I've spent at least 95 nights in hotels so far this year.)

First stop: Beirut. A city with stunning views of the Med. Most Americans think only of the civil war which raged there in the 70's and 80s. Well, those days are over (not that there aren't certain tensions.). But, this is a fantastic place. Can't wait.

Went to a new restaurant the other night...

Neighbors invited me out to this new place in the restaurant section of town. Nice place. Italian. So we walk in and the woman at the front asks if we want "Smoking" or "Non-Smoking." "Non-Smoking" of course. OK, it'll be a 15 or 20 minute wait. Fine. This ever happen to you? The place was busy and there were four or five parties waiting patiently to be seated.

Then I noticed how the "Smoking" section was practically deserted. Maybe 25% filled. I could only see one table with an actual smoker. So I asked the manager why a smoker who WASN'T there, who may NEVER be there, was more important to her business than mine. Why did all these smoking customers who weren't there merit reserved tables? I was there willing to wait to spend my money (OK, so the neighbors were treating. Same difference.). But the corporation felt someone who in all likelihood wouldn't even show up was more valuable to them than me. It just didn't make sense. Were they in business to make money or to make a sociological statement.

I realize the time is coming when every place of business and public access will be non-smoking. Remember when they had smoking sections on airplanes? I remember when hospitals sold cigarettes. Crazy.

Total non-smoking in public is a good thing. Hey, they don't have peeing and non-peeing sections in swimming pools. We shouldn't have smoking sections in public.

Kill yourself in private. It's the right thing to do.

Should Lance Armstrong Compete in the Tour De France again?

Apparently Lance Armstrong, angered by reports in French newspapers that he tested positive for EPO in "B" urine samples from his 1999 Tour, has publicly stated he might race in next year's Tour. Just to irk the French media. Brother, I say do it!

But, not to get back at the ink-stained wretches. Screw them. Lance should do it for himself. I say this from personal experience. It's a little hard to explain. But, that never stopped me from trying. So here goes: When you compete at your highest level it's hard. Very hard. You work and train and plan and put a lot of sweat equity into being the best you can be. Those long, seemingly endless training sessions are a burden on you and your family. The emotional and physical tolls on you are immense. When you're young and strong it comes so easily. And the rewards are great. Great to the point where they virtually define you.

At a certain point, a certain age, the body ceases to respond to all that work. It simply can't produce at the level the athlete has come to expect. No matter what training regimen or diet or developments in technology come around, when it's gone, it's gone. Simple as that. It takes a long time (sometimes years) for the mind to comprehend what the body knows. Your peak athletic time has passed. For the athlete, that is a hard thing to accept.

A merchant or professor or hair dresser can continue on in their craft for decades with no apparent loss of skill. For the competitive athlete there is no such cushion. And you miss it. You miss the ability to respond to the challenge. You miss the searing, agonizing, lactic acid filled moments (eternities?) when you throw everything you have left into the fire and watch the other guy break. I could go on and on. Every athlete fantasizes about how good it would feel to NOT have to kill themselves in training. To have more time away from the sport. To sleep in on Saturday morning instead of doing the 23 mile training run at 6 AM, so as not to interfere with everyone else's schedule. To be a normal person.

Time and tide will take care of that soon enough. But, until it does for Lance I wish to add my one small voice. Ride. Train like a demon, marry Sheryl Crow, front for the Discovery Channel. Do what you do. But ride and race until you have nothing left. Win 12 Tours. Do it until someone else comes along and knocks you off that top pedestal.

You WILL regret stopping when there is still something left in the tank. You won't if the tank is empty.

Do it because you can.

I Am Getting Sick and Tired....

Of all these bureaucratic "Talking Heads" saying "This is not the time for finger pointing" when it comes to laying blame for the disaster in New Orleans. That's EXACTLY what the right wants. They know the attention span of the American public is about two nanoseconds. They know as time passes this will fade from our attention-deficit memory. They know the blame lies largely on the Right-Wing controlled Federal government. They know President Sock Puppet is incapable of compassion and understanding. They know if they throw enough photo ops of him faking caring up there we will let him slide. Just like always.

If now now, WHEN???

Now is the time!!

Deny everything

Even when caught with a smoking gun.

The Mess in Louisiana/Mississippi...

Don't you wish we could know what the real story is down there? You see all these poor people begging for help. Starving, flooding, dying, looting, fires. Then you have the "officials" saying what a magnificent job they're doing. What the Hell is going on?

You know, Congress re-convened early, on a Sunday(!), to pass some kind of legislation on Terry Schiavo. Yet only yesterday did they get around to showing up to appropriate money for this disaster.

Not our finest hour.